For the high note in feasting, I think it’s time to bring in a kingly ingredient. Venison. While this, like duck, is in my ‘order when out but wimp out of cooking at home’ list, that doesn’t stop me appreciating it.
Part of my day job involves some food blogging for restaurants that regularly serve game. A whole range of it, in fact. So I have to get my linguistic thinking cap on to do it all justice.
Game is a wonderful part of autumnal food. It happens to sit well with sweeter tastes, things like fruit, which is great for people like me who rather like mixing sweet and savoury together in main courses.
Game is also good for you. It’s lean, it’s got great flavour, without the heaviness of some other red meats. And, above all, Scotland is a brilliant place for game. You don’t have to be into the glorious twelfth to recognise that it’s accessible here, which makes it easier to enjoy, whether you are cooking your own or dining out.
Having set out my stall, back to venison. I recognise that plenty of people don’t want to eat ‘Bambi’. That’s OK. But I’ve holidayed regularly on an island known for its deer, where culls are part of the balance of animals on the island.
I’ve seen the deer at fairly close quarters – particularly in the spring when they come down behind the cottage to eat the fresher plants. I know they are appreciated (except when they eat too much of the back garden). I know that their end is a respectful one.
So I sit fairly comfortably with eating venison – as does the rest of my family. Find us out for a meal, with venison on the menu, and most if not all of us will be ordering it. This sounds like we are eating it a lot – it probably adds up to once or twice a year, which I think is probably OK.
What to put with venison? Wine. Dark chocolate can be great as part of the sauce, adding some bitterness to the richness of the meat. Some greens, if you can, for a cleaner flavour to balance out the meat. Plenty of mash to mop up the sauce, if you have it.
The meat can sometimes be a little drier, so having a good sauce to a dish helps. I’ve not experimented so much with larger cuts of meat – mostly, I come across venison stew, and accept it gratefully.
On a similar note, venison pie is also good – the pastry as a mash equivalent. Plus it cheers up a pie no end, breaking through the crust and discovering a special treat underneath.
Venison. It’s maybe not the go-to choice for Christmas. I understand. But if you are kicking off twelve days of merry-making, this would be a cracking place to start.